Spain Then & Now
Spain Then & Now

Spain Then & Now

2014: Barcelona

Ten years ago, Manohar and I took a whirlwind trip to Barcelona. We ran nonstop around the vibrant city. We even squeezed in a side trip to Montserrat, the jagged mountain range near Barcelona, famous for the Benedictine Monastery of Santa Maria de Montserrat.

We loved our time in Spain but felt we had barely scratched the surface. We promised to return someday to explore further afield.

2025 Valencia

This time we did it right. We signed a 2-month apartment lease, Manohar registered for Spanish classes (in Valencia!), and we made this sunny city our home base for exploring Spain.

Oranges everywhere!

We arrived just in time to see the trees bursting with vibrant oranges! As we walked by, the occasional orange would drop to the ground begging to be picked up. As tempting as it was, we resisted since we didn’t know the rules. Later, we learned these ornamental-only trees, brought by Moorish sultans to decorate their palaces and mosques in the 10th century, were too bitter to eat. Can you believe a staggering one million pounds of oranges are collected by the city every year?

The Turia Gardens

Our apartment was near The Turia Gardens (Jardin del Turia). The gardens stretch 5.5 miles (9 K) over a former riverbed. The river was diverted in the 1950s due to a devastating flood.

ValenciaExtra.com

Among the park’s ample paths, ponds, and playgrounds, are 18 bridges crossing the former river — dating back to the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries. From the park, you can cross bridges directly to major attractions including Old Town and the City of Arts and Sciences.

Old Town

Old Town Valencia is enclosed by remnants of a medieval wall, with two of its original access gates still standing. Notable landmarks include the 13th-century Valencia Cathedral, which was constructed on the site of an ancient Roman temple that later became a mosque. The cathedral is also known for housing the Holy Grail. Also, the San Nicolás Church in Valencia, often referred to as the “Sistine Chapel of Valencia,” is renowned for its breathtaking Baroque frescoes

City of Arts and Sciences

Contrasting the ancient history of Old Town, The City of Arts and Sciences (Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias, or, CAC) is a sprawling campus of space-age buildings situated at the southern end of the Turia Gardens,

The CAC comprises six sections covering 1.25 miles (2K) including an opera house, IMAX cinema and planetarium, a science museum, and Europe’s largest aquarium. Fun fact, Disney filmed its movie “Tomorrowland” here!

Out and About!

Sunny and 60°F (16°C) in February was delicious! Every day we were outside! We ran in the park and treated ourselves to coffee afterward. Manohar ate up his daily Spanish classes and loved the chance to try out his new language with locals! Weekends were especially vibrant. Valencians devoted Saturdays and Sundays to relaxation, outdoor adventures, cultural experiences, and tasty cuisine. We did too! After all, when in Rome!

Horchata and Fartons

One of the best parts of traveling is getting to try local food. It’s not just about tasting new flavors—it’s a way to really connect with the culture. Food tells a story about a place, from its history and traditions to its values.

Horchata, made from tiger nuts, is a cherished sweet, non-alcoholic beverage that Valencians grow up enjoying. Though it’s especially popular during the sweltering summer months, it’s readily available year-round in Valencia.

PC: Tiger nuts (aka chufa or earth almonds) from spanishclub.blog

The Arab Moors introduced tiger nuts from North Africa, and Valencia’s perfect weather and rich soil made it easy to grow them. The first mention of a horchata-like drink in Valencia goes all the way back to the 13th century!

Valencia horchata is still made from ground tiger nuts — which are not a nut at all. They are small, wrinkled tubers from the edible root vegetable. (Note: Later, the Spanish brought horchata to the Americas during colonization but adapted it to use local ingredients like rice and cinnamon instead of tiger nuts.)

The farton (which rhymes with “carton”) is a light, sweet pastry from Valencia, created in the 1960s by the Polo family, who lived next to a tiger nut field. They wanted the perfect snack to go with horchata, so they ditched the traditional hard, crunchy breadstick and came up with a soft, spongy one that soaks up the drink. The name “farton” comes from the Valencian word “fartar,” meaning “to provide in abundance.”

Buñuelos

Buñuelos are kind of like French beignets or a less sweet North American doughnut, and they’re traditionally made with pumpkin. A Moorish baker came up with them back in the 11th century, and they’ve been a favorite ever since! You can enjoy them on their own or dipped in thick drinking chocolate. Just be sure to ask for “los buñuelos calientitos!” As our host put it, “If they’re not hot, they lose half their flavor!”

Things don’t always go as planned

If there’s anything we’ve learned since traveling full-time, it’s to be flexible.

About one week after we arrived, I started to notice odd, itchy spots on my hand. The next morning, I woke up with spots on my neck. I stopped in to speak to a pharmacist, she suggested soap for sensitive skin. She said tourists sometimes have trouble with the high calcium levels in the water.

The spots continued to grow in size and number. I decided to make an appointment with a dermatologist. He prescribed two medications and said I should give them two weeks to work.

The spots multiplied, blistered, and seeped. I thought, “Are the medicines working?!”

Then, I noticed tiny spots of blood on the floor and the bedsheets. Manohar lifted the mattress and we discovered the culprit—bed bugs.

We left the apartment immediately and checked into a hotel. The hosts said the apartment would need at least two treatments one week apart. In any case, I couldn’t imagine returning to that bed. We scrapped the rest of our trip and flew home.

The day after landing in the US, I saw my regular dermatologist. The patterns of welts on my body were a telltale sign of bed bug bites. They bite…munch…walk…bite…munch…walk—in a straight line. My reaction was so bad I needed an antihistamine and steroid cream. “Sleep tight, don’t let the bed bugs bite,” is no joke!

Strangely, Manohar did not react to the bites at all. If it weren’t for the spots of blood on his side of the bed, I’d wonder if he even got bitten! In hindsight, my reaction was actually a blessing in disguise—it made us aware of the infestation before we accidentally carried any stowaways to our next destination.

Ah, the joys of travel—lol!

Note: The links we provided on wanderfulretirement.com are for general informational purposes only; they do not constitute an endorsement. Unless otherwise credited, all of the pictures are owned by wandefulretirement.com and cannot be used without permission. Pictures taken in public are for general information only and are not meant to be invasive.

2 Comments

  1. Nikki

    Looks like you + Manohar are having a great time globe-trotting. Neither the pharmacist nor the doctor recognized the bites! Hopefully they are uncommon + you don’t meet them ever again!
    Thanks for these fine pictures of Spain!

  2. Vikram

    I always knew Manohar is rather tick, oops, thick skinned 😉 Jokes apart, sorry to see you had to cut short your stay.

    Better luck for your next globe trotting destination. Enjoy!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.