Summer 2021: Travel Resumes

By June 2021, the pandemic was starting to loosen its grip, and countries were beginning to open their borders to fully vaccinated people. We gratefully packed our carry-ons and headed to the airport.

Portugal (Azores, Sao Miguel)

Sao Miguel, the “green island,” lived up to its name. In June, the weather was perfectly temperate, ranging between 65-70 °F (18-21 °C) during the day and dropping down to 50 °F (10 °C) at night. The sun was hot but the constant sea breeze was cool. Almost every morning included a quick passing rain (necessary for the island to keep its green title). Hiking was our key activity. We went on several well-marked hikes, either in volcanic calderas, by the sea — or both! No giant, all-inclusive hotels here. More like farms, cows, and goats. It was absolutely peaceful — roosters, ducks, cats, frogs, and dogs excluded.

Greece

Onward to Greece. Our three weeks included 3 islands (Naxos, Sifnos, and Santorini) as well as the mainland (the Peloponnese region, Delphi, and Athens).

Cyclades Islands: Naxos, Sifnos, Santorini

Our desire when choosing islands for our first visit was to try to experience something a little different in each place. We ultimately chose three Cyclades islands based on their varied descriptions and relative proximity to one another and to Athens. Ultimately, we flew from Athens to Naxos, took a fast ferry from Naxos to Sifnos, a slow ferry from Sifnos to Santorini, and lastly, flew from Santorini back to Athens.

Naxos

We flew into Naxos and a rep from the Escape in Naxos car rental company met us at the airport with our car. We signed all the paperwork on the hood of the car and agreed on a time to meet him at the ferry pier in a few days. I was wondering if we were going to need to drop him somewhere, but it wasn’t necessary because he had his motorcycle there too (people must drop off the cars ahead of time).

For some perspective, the airport is 2.5 miles away from the biggest city, Naxos City (aka Chora*). This means if you arrive Naxos by ferry, you will arrive in the heart of town. While many tourists stay in and around Naxos City, since we had a car we opted to venture further out. We stayed 30 minutes north along the western coastline in the town of Abram. Our lovely family-run guesthouse was called Petrino.

*Every island’s biggest city is called Chora, pronounced “Kora”, when the largest town is the same as the island.

We were able to walk down to the sea from our hotel. There was a small beach, but it was quite rocky and the waves were strong. In search of a good swimming beach, twice we drove back to Naxos City and then meandered southward along the coastline. Each time, we parked the car and walked along sandy beaches, but restaurants, hotels, and third parties seemed to have claimed much of the beachfront with their lounge chairs and umbrellas. So, the choices were: 1) eat/sleep at an establishment, 2) pay for a lounge chair, 3) wait until 5:00 pm when many lounge chairs are free, or 4) claim a sliver of sand between establishments.

Our favorite activity on Naxos was attending a half-day cooking class at the family-owned Basiliko Tavern in Lierado between Kato and Mesi Potamia. Led by Anna, we joined another couple from Switzerland to pick fresh vegetables from the family’s garden and prepare our ingredients over lovely conversation and espresso freddos (iced coffees). While our food cooked (see recipe for Greek stuffed veggies), we went on a beautiful lushly shaded river walk that was unexpectedly historical too — we learned Venetians occupied the land in the 17th century!

Sifnos

We arrived in Sifnos via fast ferry. Despite my sea sickness when we landed, Sifnos was our favorite of the three islands we visited. We loved how walkable the harbor town of Kamares was and I adored the incredibly shallow SWIMMABLE beach! It was lovely being surrounded by so many young families on holiday.

We could see the potential for hikes, but road runs required Manohar to wake up early to avoid the heat and traffic. The road to the next down was the only way to gain distance and besides being steep and windy, it had no shoulder to speak of.

No worries though. We found Sifnos to be a perfectly tranquil island. We loved our morning espresso freddos and evening dinners by the sun and the sea! I can imagine returning here again someday with grandkids.

Santorini

I was wary of another ferry ride but the slow ferry to Santorini was as smooth as silk. We had six hours to sit out on the back deck (with sunscreen) and see the sea, scout other islands, read a book, check some emails, and have phone calls with loved ones back home. As an observer of systems I loved my front row seat (over the back deck). At each port of call I found it fascinating to watch the deckhands dock the ferry. I also marveled at how the semi truck drivers maneuvered their 18-wheelers on and off the ferry with such grace.

We knew we were getting close to Santorini when we started spotting passenger cruise ships. In the distance we could also see the white towns of Oia and Fira dripping like frosting down the sides of a chocolate cake. Approaching Santorini’s ferry port, Athinos Port (aka New Port), was very different from other ports we had seen. All the other ports were an extension of life on the island. The Santorini ferry port, however, was dwarfed by its steep, rocky backdrop, reminding you that the port itself sits in a submerged caldera. Everyone needs a ride up the cliffside, and ours was in a van sent by our hotel. The driver wasted no time cruising us up the steep, windy road and then onward about 20 minutes to our hotel in Fira (aka Thira).

Our hotel was perfectly situated between the cobblestone footpath (sea side) and a real world city street on the other. There was a stark difference in the vibe on either side — and we absolutely explored both sides. It goes without saying, you will pay a premium for food/items you purchase sea side (now I sound like my father).

Despite the heatwave, a favorite activity was the 6.5-mile hike between Oia and Fira. We hiked it twice, the first time from Oia to Fira in the late afternoon and the second time from Fira to Oia in the morning. It took us about 2.5 hours each time with stops for snacks, water, pictures, and general exploring. On our third day, Manohar set out before sunrise when the temperature was a balmy 77 °F (25 °C) and ran the trail in 1.5 hours.

The photos in this first gallery were taken on the sea side.

These next few photos are in the city. By the way, if you plan on doing the hike between Oia and Fira, you’ll likely want to take a bus one way or the other. Also, in case you are a coffee dunker like me, bakeries in the city are a coffee dunker’s paradise!

Another fun outing was our trek down to the cruise port, Skala (aka Old Port). Unlike the New Port where our ferry dropped us, Old Port is very accessible to and from Fira. In fact, all of the cruise passengers are tendered ashore at Old Port. Once we walked down to the Old Port, we (and the cruise passengers) had three choices: 1) ride the cable cars, 2) ride the donkeys, or 3) climb the 600 stairs. Despite the heat, 93 °F (34 °C) we climbed the stairs!

Mainland: Peloponnese region, Delphi, and Athens city

After 12 days on the islands, we flew back to Greece’s mainland and embarked on a 6 day, 600-mile driving tour. We rounded out our Greece visit with 3 days in Athens.

Nafplio

With daytime temperatures in the 90s °F (30s °C), we ventured out early to seek out espresso freddo (priorities) and to climb the 900 steps to the 17th century Venetian built Fortress of Palamidi. We spent a few hours exploring the sprawling structure atop the hill above the sea accompanied by hundreds of thousands of Greek cicadas known as tzitzikas (pronounced similar to tzatziki but finish with an “ah”). These ear-piercing relatives of crustaceans get their name from the constant tz tz tz tz sound they make.

Later that day, after a shaded afternoon rest, we explored the harbor and Old Town. Then we rounded out the evening like everyone else, dining sea side with regional favorites such as freshly caught grilled sardines and locally made, icy cold ouzo.

Monemvasia

The only thing I’d heard about Monemvasia was that it is the Gibraltar of Greece. As we drove closer to the enormous rock, I couldn’t believe around the other side was a medieval town dating back to the 6th century!

Again, we set out early to beat the heat and, subsequently, the crowds. Approaching the town reminded me of slowly opening an amazing gift. We hiked to Upper Town and zigzagged our way through Lower Town. It was incredibly peaceful as we travelled back in time and imagined who had walked on the hill before us. It was one of the most unique places I’ve ever been and one of my favorite memories of summer.

Olympia

My first impression of the Olympia archeological sight was the enormous project of sifting through 3,000-year-old rubble. Beginning in 776 BC, the original Olympic site hosted games every four years in honor of the Greek god Zeus. Animals were offered as sacrifices and athletes competed naked to show Zeus their muscular bodies.

The games lasted one thousand years, but their popularity began to decline when the Romans started their takeover of Greece in the 2nd century BC. Then, in the 4th century AD, it is thought that a Christian emperor demanded an end to the Olympic games because of their pagan nature. Further destruction caused by earthquakes and flooding buried the site under layers of mud, and the grounds were abandoned in the 7th century AD. The site wasn’t rediscovered until the 18th century. Excavation began in the 19th century and is still a work in progress.

Delphi

According to Greek mythology, Zeus wanted to find the center of the Earth so he sent out two eagles, one east and one west. The eagles met in Delphi, and Zeus concluded Delphi was the omphalos (navel) of the world. We wound our way up the slopes of Mount Parnassus to Delphi to see the sanctuary of Apollo and the shrine of his oracle. Once again, we relied heavily on the museum before heading to the archeological sites.

The Delphic oracle, the Pythia (priestess), was believed to be the voice of the Greek god Apollo. A woman selected from the local area would inhale intoxicating fumes from a chasm in the earth and allow Apollo to possess her spirit. Her hallucinogenic mutterings would be translated by a priest as visions. Leaders and common folk alike would journey miles up the mountainside in seek of answers to life’s biggest problems.

Naturally high on life and relishing the cool mountain air, we enjoyed a lovely Greek dinner outdoors at Taverna Dion and even slept with our balcony doors wide open at Arion Hotel — cats, bats, and all!

Athens

Athens was the last stop on our Greece tour. This had been previously recommended for the certainty of being in position for flights out of the country. If a Greek island is your only or last destination before returning home, be sure to allow extra time if you are returning to Athens via ferry, as the boats can be unreliable due to unpredictable weather at sea.

We enjoyed wandering Athens neighborhoods including Plaka, Monastiraki, and the National Garden – Syntagma. In the shadow of the Acropolis, many of these ancient buildings now cater to tourists. Even so, you can’t help but stumble upon ancient relics. For example, Hadrian’s Gate, built in the 2nd century AD, stands in the city center, a stone’s throw from a frozen yogurt shop. Civil engineers tunneling underground for things like trains and water pipes have also unearthed ancient sites that now lay open and ready for further inspection.

As for the Acropolis, we gave it two days. We spent one day at the museum and then the next morning we were among the first in line for the site itself. We wanted to get in before the tour buses; more so, with daily temperatures nearing 100 °F (38 °C), we wanted to hike up the plateau before the heat of day.

Top 10 takeaways from Greece:

1. A little Greek language goes a long way. Minimally, please use “kali mera” (good morning), “geia sas” (hello), and “efcharisto” (thank you).
2. Greece, like the rest of the Europe, uses a 24-hour time clock (aka military time) so consider brushing up your skills if necessary.
3. The sea is cool and wet, but just a few miles inland, the land is hot and dry like a desert — including on the islands! If your plans include driving, sightseeing, or hiking inland, make sure you have lots of extra water and sunscreen. Next time I will carry an umbrella to further protect my skin from the burning sun.
4. Bottled water is the norm for tourists and residents alike. It is sold cheaply everywhere.
5. As a general rule, you’re really not supposed to put paper in the toilets in Greece, and yes, that is supposed to include toilet paper. There are typically plastic-lined trash bins next to toilets that get emptied throughout the day.
6. The islands are accessible via plane and/or ferry and require some research. Ferries can be fast or slow. “Overnight slow” is a third option. Keep in mind that fast ferries are smaller, lighter boats at the mercy of the sea. Fast ferries will also cost upwards of 4-5 times more than a slow ferry (sometimes reaching the same price as a flight). Lastly, you may get more than you bargained for with a fast ferry; that is, sea sickness — I felt it and saw it. After sampling fast and slow ferries, I’m partial to slow.
7. Roads on the islands can be extremely steep, curvy, and narrow — and sometimes unpaved. Use your good sense when using Google Maps as sometimes it cannot distinguish between the types of terrain.
8. As in much of Europe, be aware that most rental cars have a manual transmission. On the islands, ATV’s (four-wheelers) and scooters are other popular forms of transportation for tourists.
9. Also regarding rental cars, you are only required to replenish the gas (petrol) that you use. Both times we rented cars in Greece the gas tanks were less than half full. So accustomed to returning rental cars with a full tank of gas, we gave back some ‘free’ gas.
10. Strenuous activities (e.g., sightseeing, hiking) should be done in the morning or evening hours – especially during the hot summer months. Moreover, many sights open at 8:00 am, and tourist buses don’t arrive before 9:00 am, so you can beat the crowds if you set out early.

Addendum: Denmark

Following the dry heat in Greece and the cold rain in Ireland (during our 3-day layover), even Goldilocks would have agreed that Copenhagen’s weather was just right! The only snafu was that Manohar started feeling sick the day after we arrived, which included running a fever. Having just learned how contagious the latest Covid variant was, even to those previously vaccinated, Manohar stopped by one of the many pop-up Covid test sites around town. Sadly, he tested positive (presumably with the Delta variant). We took comfort in the fact he had been vaccinated. Not wishing to spread the disease further, the Danish health officials graciously provided transportation and isolation quarters for Manohar for the next 7 nights/8 days.

After hearing about Manohar’s predicament, Alison and Mick canceled their flights. Aaron had already arrived, so we soldiered on and made the best of it. We managed to catch some glimpses of this beautiful city, but we would have to try again in the future. (See our Copenhagen do-over!)

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