Busan, South Korea

Manohar and I spent the month of September in Busan, South Korea. We took our time wandering back streets and front streets and basically we just lived. Our impression of the city was that it’s unbelievably clean — especially considering its population of 3.5 million! Other observations about this city-by-the-sea included beautiful beaches, shiny skyscrapers, and gorgeously green, art-filled parks. Fashion is on par with Paris — très chic! Pooches are primped and pampered — and frankly, outnumber children in strollers. The subway is spotless; the busses are efficient and easy. Relatively speaking, restaurants seemed less expensive than groceries and seafood seemed less expensive than fruit.

Typhoon Hinnamnor

Having spent most of my life smack dab in the middle of North America, typhoons (aka hurricanes) were new to me. I hadn’t given much thought to what sort of preparations were necessary until the emergency alerts started sounding on our phones. Though we were staying only 3 blocks from the sea, our 10th floor apartment was in a concrete building and our large picture windows faced north, away from the impending storm.

All the same, it was a very long night, well, for one of us anyway (of course, Manohar slept). I cooked food and charged flashlights in case we lost power. Then, I lay awake all night listening to the howling wind, clanking metal (which I presumed was flying debris), and a constant influx of emergency alerts on my phone with accompanying instructions in Korean.

The following morning, the creepiest thing for me was discovering our bed had moved away from the wall, which I guess proved my hope that these buildings were built for typhoons and earthquakes (e.g., the ability to sway).

In the afternoon, once the storm had passed, we walked down to the seaside motorway. There was sand everywhere — like a sand version of a snow storm in Minnesota — roads were closed and sand was piled everywhere!

Comfort Food

Samgyetang – Ginseng Chicken Soup

On one of the steamy days leading up to typhoon Hinnamnor’s landfall, I found myself craving some comfort food. Traditionally eaten on the hottest days of summer, samgyetang, or ginseng chicken soup, is an herbaceous soup with health restoring qualities. Along with the spicy kimchis, this dish is supposed to cool you in summer — but I would also love it in winter!

There are many restaurants that serve only samgyetang. I would love to try them all, but we only visited two.

Ingredients in the soup can vary depending on region and household, but the basics include a whole chicken filled with glutinous rice, ginseng, garlic, and jujube*. After you separate the tender chicken (and dip each bite in a tiny dish of salt), you’re left with a velvety bowl of porridge. The soup is served with salt(s), a variety of the freshest kimchis**, and raw chiles and/or garlic cloves. The broth is a blank canvas. Each bite can be its own masterpiece. The beauty for me was the overall experience. Oh yes, let me not forget, ginseng wine is also traditionally served with samgyetang.

* Jujube is a variety of date. Wikipedia says it is also known as Korean date, Indian date, Chinese date, and red date. And, believe it or not, you have heard of jujube before. That is, if you are familiar with the movie theatre candy called Jujubes — the smaller, firmer cousin of Dots gumdrops. The original recipe for jujube candy dates back to the 18th century when actual fruit dates were used for flavoring.

** While kimchi is associated with cabbage, it can be just about any salted and fermented vegetable (e.g., radish or cucumber).

Restaurant comparison:	Jang Su Sam	Jonggwan Bae’s Dongnae Samgyetang
Aesthetic	Tiny room. Cap: 25 diners. Place your shoes on the wooden shelves inside the front door. The majority of seats are on floor cushions (physical flexibility required), but there are two tables with chairs. Carry out is available.	Small, divided rooms. Cap: 50 diners. Place your shoes in the discreet lidded storage cabinet inside the front door. Sit on chairs at tables. Carry out is available.
Broth	very good, as expected	slightly more flavor
Sides/Kimchis	more taste variance amongst kimchis, more flavorful red chili sauce	cooked gizzards and fresh garlic cloves included, spicier cabbage kimchi
Ginseng wine	one shot each	one small porcelain sake flask to share (4 shots)
Sweetened coffee	included (and delicious!)	not included
Price	15,000 won ($10.82 USD)	17,000 won ($12.26 USD)

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple is one of the many must-see temples in Busan. Perched on a rocky cliffside since 1376, its name since 1974 means “Korea’s Dragon Palace Temple.” 

This temple is easily accessed by car or public transportation. The proof is in the large number of visitors. Manohar and I opted to arrive by city bus which included a scenic drive through the city and up the coast. From the bus stop, it was a short walk uphill to the temple. I was glad I had chosen to wear good shoes for the hills, steps, and rocky terrain. Ready for tourists, right outside the temple entrance, there were food stalls selling refreshing fruit juices, grilled squid, and steamed fish cakes on a stick. The temple is situated directly on the sea so it was quite breezy! We easily spent an hour roaming around the bustling grounds.

Seokbulsa Temple

In 1930, the Seokbulsa Temple was built into the sides of sandstone cliffs on Geumjeongsan (Mt. Geumjeong), the highest mountain in Busan. It is a small temple, but the views are grand!

Unlike Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, Seokbulsa Temple is a more physical journey (for those of us without a car). After packing our lunches with help from nearby Gentz Bakery, we proceeded to the Geumgang Park Cable Car. After our scenic ride up, we hit the trail and followed signs to the South Gate followed by signs to Seokbulsa Temple.

Out there on the trail, the deep forest was brimming with life — of the human variety! Elders on their daily walk, couples spread out on blankets enjoying a woodland picnic, and mountain bikers getting their daily rush riding straight down over giant boulders. More surprising to me, we also happened upon a couple of tiny villages, food shacks, and a group of men playing jokgu (think volleyball using your feet) on a proper court.

The final, very steep 0.6-kilometer ascent to the temple was a doozy. But the stunning temple views at the top were well worth the effort. We spent about 30 minutes soaking in the serenity and admiring the magnificent stone carvings.

We had paid for round-trip rides on the cable car, but after experiencing the tiring up-down-up 3.5-kilometer forest hike, we opted to hike straight down from the temple on the other side of the mountain. All and all, a very worthwhile and enriching experience.

Bupyeong Kkangtong Night Market 

On one pleasant evening, Manohar and I took a one-hour bus ride to the famous night market. By day, Bupyeong Khangtong is a bustling market. In the evenings, when permanent stores close their gates, the food carts roll in. Our bus dropped us in front of BIFF Square, a bustling block of cineplexes, movie posters, and the equivalent of the Hollywood Walk of Fame. We walked a few blocks through the brightly lit streets onward to the covered Bupyeong Khangtong market. We arrived at the published opening time of 7:30 pm, but food really didn’t start cooking until closer to 8:00 pm.

There were carts offering foods from all over — Turkey, Vietnam, Japan, etc. But, we pointedly sought out foods specific to Busan.

Eomuk (fish cake): Made from a mix of fish, shrimp, crab, and squid with a soy sauce-based dipping sauce. Think seafood hotdog. We chose the shape and size of the fish cake we wanted by just grabbing a stick. When we were finished eating, we paid by counting our sticks.

Dongnae Pajeon (Dongnae-style scallion & seafood pancake): Busan prides itself on its take on the Korean scallion pancake. Firstly, regional short, tender Dongnae scallions (aka green onions) are used. Then, seafood is included (e.g., shrimp, squid, clams etc.) because of Busan’s coastal location. This pancake has the typical crispy outside, but the biggest difference is its soft, almost watery texture inside. The other big difference, unlike the usual soy sauce-based dipping sauce for regular pajeon, people eat this scallion pancake with a chili-vinegar based dipping sauce called cho-gochujang to highlight the flavor of the seafood. This sauce was so delicious! I found a recipe here: sweet, tangy, and spicy Korean dipping sauce.

Ssiat hotteok (seeded pancake): Busan’s version of the sweet rice and brown sugar pancake includes seeds — of the sunflower, sesame, and/or pumpkin variety.

Costco — Who knew?!

There is not just one Costco, but 16 stores spread around the country. We couldn’t resist, we had to check it out! Just like in the US, we simply had to flash our membership card at the entrance. Inside, all the merchandise was laid out like any store back home — electronics, jewelry, clothing, bakery, fruits, meats, etc. The only noticeable differences lie in the selection of food items. No complaints here

*** According to Wikipedia, 800,000 bottles of banana flavored milk are sold each day in South Korea. In the early 1970s, the Korean government encouraged people to drink more milk to prevent malnourishment. At the time, bananas were too expensive for the general population. That is when the Binggrae company had the idea to add banana flavor to milk so people could have a taste of luxury.

I even marveled at their fast-food counter. With such a fun selection, we had to indulge. Choices included: ricotta fruit salad (greens, ricotta cheese, chickpeas, fresh mango, apple, and cherry tomatoes), chicken salsa wrap, cheese or bulgogi pizza, hot dog with a soda, calzone, pork bake, mushroom soup, watermelon juice, chocolate soft ice cream, and a strawberry shake.

The Shinsegae Mall

Due to its close proximity to our apartment, we found ourselves in the posh Shinsegae mall area at least twice per week for groceries, a quick bite, or a cup of coffee. Think upscale Mall of America. The mall is also home to Spa Land, one of South Korea’s most famous spas for its dozens of hot spring baths and saunas. You can indulge further with add-ons such as — body scrubbing, facials, massages, and food — but, a regular four-hour visit is only 20,000 won ($14.42 USD).

Your visit begins in either the women’s or men’s locker rooms. Be aware you will need to be comfortable being completely naked in front of others since the required shower and hot spring baths are all out in the open. If you do chicken out, however, you do have the option of simply changing into the spa-issued shorts and shirt and then spending your time in the sprawling co-ed sauna and relaxation areas.

On the day I finally worked up my courage to go, on arrival I second-guessed my decision when I read the fine print on the lobby wall, “The following persons are not allowed to enter the Spa: Persons with tattoos…” Oh well, I hope you get a chance to enjoy it.

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