Vietnam
Vietnam

Vietnam

Our curiosity about Vietnam started in 2003 in a Vietnamese restaurant in Toronto Chinatown. Twenty years later, we were able to spend one month basically eating our way around Vietnam. We travelled from Ho Chi Minh City in the south to Hanoi and Ha Long Bay in the north. Finally, we ended up in Hoi An, halfway in-between. Here are the highlights of some of our wonderful experiences.

Ho Chi Minh City

Our starting point in Vietnam was in its largest city, Ho Chi Minh City (aka HCMC, aka Saigon). With a population of just over 9 million people, it tops the population of New York City by about 1 million. Saigon deserves more than a couple of days, but we were keen to head north to cooler climates.

Hanoi

Therefore, we took a 2-hour flight to the capital city of Hanoi, Vietnam’s second most populous city with 8 million people. Hanoi’s Old Quarter is brimming with tourists and ex-pats from near and far. And while it was fun exploring the sites by day, at dusk was when the streets came fully alive. Regardless of the time of day, the common denominator was always F-O-O-D!

Eager to tap into the lesser known Vietnamese food specialties, we booked a street food tour via Airbnb Experiences for the second evening of our stay.

Our guide, Hoan, walked us around the Old Quarter — including through magical alleys and doorways we would not have known about had she not been with us. Some of the foods we tried included:

  • bánh cuốn – steamed rice rolls filled with shrimp
  • cháo sườn – rice pork rib porridge (aka congee) with minced pork, shredded pork and fried salty donut
  • bánh bột lọc, nem rán, phở cuốn, trà quất – steamed rice dumpling cake, spring roll, summer roll, kumquat tea
  • bánh xèo chay – vegetarian pancake wrapped in rice paper with fresh herbs and greens
  • cà phê/ cacao trứng – egg coffee/ egg chocolate
  • hoa quả dầm sữa chua – fruits mixed with yogurt and chia seeds

What is Egg Coffee?

Egg coffee is a frothy mix of egg yolk, sugar, and condensed milk that is beaten until light and fluffy. The foam is then spooned over strong black coffee. The froth is so thick that it can be eaten with a spoon. What does it taste like? Delicious! It reminded us of Italian tiramisu.

Some egg coffee origin stories date back to the Anti-French War that followed WWII, but its creation came about when the economy was suffering and there was a shortage of fresh milk. That’s when an imaginative bartender named Nguyen Giang, working at the luxurious Sofitel Legend Metropole in Hanoi, invented a creamy alternative to milk so he could continue serving hotel guests something close to café au lait.

The drink was so popular that Nguyen Giang eventually opened his own coffee shop in his name, Café Giang, which today is run by his son. However, there is another egg coffee shop that our guide preferred and it was started by the inventor’s daughter. It is called Café Dinh and it is in the heart of the Old Quarter. The café’s entrance is rather hidden, but just follow the signs upstairs. We were happily surprised by how much we enjoyed egg coffee (and its close cousin egg chocolate) at Café Dinh!

Cha ca

Braver after having ventured out with our guide, we explored more local eateries on our own. Another Hanoi specialty we had heard about was a turmeric fish dish called cha ca (pronounced: CHAH ka). In fact, there is a street full of cha ca restaurants in the Old Quarter that was officially renamed to Cha Ca Street.

For cha ca, the fish is cooked twice. The first time by the chef over hot coals and the second time by patrons at the table — along with loads of fresh dill and scallions.

When the fish and herbs finished cooking, we placed the succulent fish and fragrant herbs into our bowls and mixed in bits of the rice noodles, peanuts, and fish sauce. It was definitely one of my favorite meals in Hanoi.

Manohar also enjoyed cha ca. However, his recollection is a little hazy. That is because the gentleman at the next table was eager to share his newly opened bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label Whiskey. Manohar continued his polite objections — “No, thank you. No, thank you.” And the gentleman continued to pour Manohar glass after glass — “Cheers! Cheers!” Let’s just say, Manohar had very wobbly legs when we stood up to leave.

Roti Coffee Bun

Once Manohar found his sea legs, we followed our noses to King Roti. We had passed this shop several times and finally indulged ourselves in a warm, fresh-out-of-the-oven, chocolate-filled bun. Pain au chocolate with less butter came to mind. There were four varieties from which to choose for about $1 USD each — chocolate, vanilla, matcha, or salty cheese. We opted for the chocolate. But beware of the squirting center, lol!

Bánh mì 25

Just before leaving Hanoi, and despite the multitude of bánh mì options around town, we set out to try the so-called “best” bánh mì at Banh Mi 25. We heard there was usually a long line so we timed it for an especially early dinner. We placed our order for three sandwiches thinking we’d each eat one right away and then take the third one back to our hotel for later. We ordered — 1) mixed pork, 2) egg, cheese & avocado, and 3) spicy tofu & king oyster mushroom stir-fry.

The tastiest surprise for me was the egg, cheese, and avocado. The combination of the light-as-air eggs, silky avocado, and fiery chili oil along with the crunchy sweet-and-sour vegetables was out of this world! The baguette’s soft, spongy inside soaked up all the juices and its thin, crispy crust enveloped it all perfectly (not like those thick-crusted baguettes that scrape the roof of your mouth). Anyway, we could not resist, we promptly ate the third sandwich. Then we stood in line AGAIN to order more. Delish!

Ha Long Bay/Lan Ha Bay

A popular excursion in Vietnam is to take an overnight cruise in Ha Long Bay amidst hundreds of limestone islands. While there are over 600 different cruises in Ha Long Bay, there are fewer than 100 in Lan Ha Bay…so that is where we started our search. Mind you, these are not giant cruise ships with 3000 guests. These cruises average closer to 70 guests with only 30-40 cabins. The array of choices was dizzying, but we eventually settled on a 2-day/1-night Doris Cruise.

On the day of our cruise, we were picked up at our Hanoi hotel by a van owned by the cruise line. Our hotel was evidently the last stop since the only remaining seats on the van were raised seats at the very back. For two people like us who suffer car sickness, that was not ideal. In fact, that was the only time we experienced any motion sickness — including the boat rides.

The journey from Hanoi to the coast was about 2.5 hours. Once we reached the dock, we boarded a small shuttle boat for the 45-minute journey out to where our cruise was anchored. Once onboard the cruise we enjoyed lunch, followed by kayaking, a cooking class, and then dinner.

The water in the bay is shallow — only 33 feet (10 meters) at its deepest. Figure in the hundreds of rocky islands and scores of other cruises and you can understand why the cruises remain anchored overnight. Our cabin had a private balcony so we could sit quietly and enjoy the views.

Hoi An

Following our cruise, we flew to Da Nang. From Da Nang we took a 40-minute taxi ride south to Hoi An, a coastal town located in the middle of the country. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its well-preserved Old Town which was a prominent trading port from the 15th to 19th centuries.

We happened to arrive Hoi An just in time for the Full Moon Festival that is celebrated every month on the river in Old Town. People were lighting lanterns on boats and performing traditional music on stages. The lights, sounds, and river boats made for magical surroundings. It felt a little bit like a Disney theme park — in a good way.

There are many things to do in Hoi An, such as touring heritage houses, riding in basket boats, and snorkeling at Cham Island. And just a short drive away are Marble Mountain, My Son Temple Sanctuary, and the Golden Hand Bridge. However, we have embraced a new form of “slow travel.” We no longer try to fit in every single tourist offering, preferring to connect with local residents and learn about their everyday lives.

Such connections were made during the 2.5 weeks we spent at KA Villa Hoi An. From the moment we arrived at this boutique hotel, we felt the genuine warmth of the proprietor, Nhung. We cherished our leisurely morning breakfast discussions about our respective cultures, families, careers, and dreams. Nhung and her entire team at KA Villa opened their arms to us and made us feel like we were part of the family.

We loved exploring our beachy surroundings, but on several occasions we crossed the rice paddies and made our way to Old Town. Manohar was an ace navigating us through the interlacing concrete roads thanks to his daily runs.

Food-lovers Paradise

Vietnamese meals combine the five fundamental tastes: sweet, salty, bitter, sour, and spicy. And there is nowhere better to explore these components than at one of the outdoor markets. The markets in Old Town were always bustling with residents and tourists.

Bánh Bao Bánh Vạc (aka White Rose Dumplings)

In the heart of Old Town, at Morning Glory Original, we had a chance to try a Hoi An specialty called bánh bao bánh vạc (aka white rose dumplings). The dumplings are translucent white rice wrappers filled with either a seasoned shrimp mousse or a minced pork and mushroom filling and wrapped to resemble a rose flower. The sauce is a mixture of soy sauce, vinegar, diced ginger and a few drops of sesame oil. Don’t let the modest presentation fool you. Each bite packs a punch of flavor that absolutely melts in your mouth. 

Cao Lầu (Pork and Rice Noodles)

Another Hoi An specialty is a pork and rice noodle dish called cao lầu. The special noodles are traditionally made from fresh, locally grown rice, water from a local well, and lye solution made with ashes of local trees. The chewy rice noodles (udon-like but not wheat) are served in a thick sauce with sliced BBQ pork. The smoky flavors are balanced by lighter notes from fresh lettuce, herbs, and crunchy pork crackling. We saw these noodles in their various stages of processing all over town, literally.

Closer to our accommodations near the beach, one of two restaurants we frequented was Ken Vegetarian and Coffee. We returned a dozen times for their tasty veg versions of Vietnamese food (and I became addicted to their scrumptious “Ken” banana-yogurt-peanut smoothie).

The second nearby restaurant we visited often was Sound of Silence for their coffee, crepes, and stunning ocean views.

Final Thoughts

Visiting Vietnam had been on our bucket list for several years and it did not disappoint. If anything, it exceeded our expectations — particularly Hoi An.

Of course the food we tasted everywhere in Vietnam was out of this world — some familiar and some brand new. We loved the practice of adding heaps of fresh herbs and greens to so many dishes and we left Vietnam inspired to incorporate new recipes into our weekly menu.

Another wonderful surprise was the fabulous air quality on the shores of Hoi An. We relished our long dinners sitting on the edge of the beach feeling the ocean breeze and watching the tide roll in. Not to mention, the fresh air coupled with the surprisingly decent running surfaces allowed Manohar to log 35 miles (56K) per week!

From city to city in Vietnam, we heard tourism was still lagging compared to the tourism boon the country was experiencing before Covid-19. However, we are optimistic that very soon tourists will once again be rushing in to enjoy all that Vietnam has to offer. We are thankful for our newfound friends and we are rooting for all of the folks in the tourism industry.

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